Spectacular Scenery

Hike The Dungeness Spit In Sequim

HOW TO GET THERE The wildlife refuge can be found along the Dungeness Scenic Loop. From Highway 101, between Sequim and Port Angeles, turn north onto Kitchen-Dick Road (near milepost 260). Travel approximately 3½ miles. The road will turn sharply to the right. The park entrance will be on your left. Proceed through the recreation area to the refuge parking area. GOOD TO KNOW The refuge is open from sunrise to sunset every day. Entrance fees are $3 per family; Federal recreation passes are also honored. Pets are not allowed on the spit. FOR MORE INFORMATION • Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge, fws.gov/washingtonmaritime/dungeness • New Dungeness Lighthouse Association, newdungenesslighthouse.com • Dungeness Recreation Area, clallam.net/CountyParks

As they drove along the scenic road, rays of sunlight broke through the cold, gray silence. Drawing closer to their destination, bits of azure blue sky began to peek out from behind the clouds. By the time they meandered through the short forested trail to the bluffs beyond, they were greeted by sparkling blue water, crashing waves and sea birds engaging in aerobatics in the sunshine-filled sky that seemed to go on forever.

Long stretches of winter fog and stagnant air advisories in the normally lovely Puget Sound region can make even the toughest Pacific Northwesterner look across the table while cradling their morning cup of coffee and say, “I have got to get out of here for a day.”

When winter in the South Sound is dreary, an escape to the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountain range — where it averages 18 inches of rain a year, rarely freezes and clouds are often shielded by the mountains — can brighten your spirits. Yes, sun, surf and a refreshed outlook on life can be found on the Dungeness Spit in sunny Sequim, a mere two hours away from Tacoma. And, to make it even more magical, on a clear day you can see Canada across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 

The spit is a wonderful destination for the whole family.  Situated on a 631-acre wildlife refuge, it’s the longest spit in the U.S. at more than 5 miles long and growing at a rate of about 15 feet a year. The spit is constantly changing due to tides and weather. It’s as little as 50 feet across at high tide and can be breached by storm surges.

Several visits to the spit over a season or two will seem very different each time.

The refuge boasts 250 species of migratory birds spotted each year, and more than 41 species of land mammals call the refuge home for at least a portion of the year.

Bring your binoculars and a camera; some birds you may see include black brant (or sea goose), bald eagles, Western snowy plovers, peregrine falcons, harlequin ducks and marbled murrelets.

The tip of the spit is a haul-out point (where mothers bring their pups to shore) for harbor seals and even the occasional Northern elephant seal. Observant guests may also be treated to the sight of mink, otters, red fox, bobcat and Northern flying squirrels. Keeping an eye out toward the water may reward an adventurer with the sight of harbor porpoises, orcas and gray whales.

The Northwest side of the spit bordered by the Strait of Juan de Fuca is open for hiking, while the Southeast side and the adjacent Graveyard Spit along Dungeness Harbor and Bay is closed to human entry to provide a sanctuary for wildlife.

For those with limited time or mobility concerns, there’s a well-maintained foot trail a little under one-half mile in length leading through the forest to an overlook on the bluff. There are interpretive displays and plaques with tree and plant names strategically placed along the trail. Those who make it to the observation platform will find telescopes perfect for observing wildlife and waves. Those who wish to continue onto the spit will descend the bluff on a gently winding trail to the beach below.

The lighthouse is an 11-mile round-trip hike from the parking lot that should be started early enough in the day so you don’t have to rush. It’s a wonderful place for a picnic, to relax on the beach and visit the ultimate destination for the energetic hiker, the New Dungeness Lighthouse. Allow 4 to 6 hours for the sometimes arduous trek over sand and rocks to enjoy a guided lighthouse tour.

Completed in 1857 and in operation ever since, the New Dungeness Lighthouse is one of the oldest lighthouses in the Pacific Northwest. It became fully automated in 1994, eliminating the need for a lighthouse keeper. The New Dungeness Lighthouse Association took over the operations and runs a wonderful program in which volunteers can be lighthouse keepers for a week. Just imagine vacationing for a week in an operational lighthouse.

Whether you come for a day to relax, birdwatch, hike the entire length of the spit or stay for a week as a volunteer lighthouse keeper, your soul will feel lighter and your world brighter.

L. Lisa Lawrence is a freelance writer and photographer who lives in Tacoma.

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